Hemanaire, Cremolino: Slow Travel Luxury Among Piedmont Vineyards

We left Zermatt in the late afternoon, the Matterhorn slowly fading in the rearview mirror, and pointed the car toward Monaco. The road wound down through mountain passes, golden light spilling across the valleys. By the time the sun disappeared, we knew we wouldn’t make the coast that night. That’s when my “emergency accommodation mode” switched on — the one where I abandon hotel stars, sort by Recommendations, and see what hidden treasures appear.

That’s how we found Hemanaire — a name that instantly stood out. Nestled near the village of Cremolino, in the rolling vineyards of Piedmont, it promised not just a place to sleep, but an experience in slow, intentional living.

Hemanaire - Slow tourism

Hemanaire offers two accommodation options: Casa Mana and Casa Hema, both designed with a quiet elegance that feels deeply connected to the land. We stayed in Casa Mana, a spacious suite that felt instantly welcoming — big enough for a teenage girl and Hana, our stubborn but lovable Shiba Inu, to settle comfortably. After a day of winding mountain roads, the space gave us room to exhale.

Every detail in Casa Mana spoke of craftsmanship: natural, artisanal furniture, warm textures, and an easy flow that made it feel more like a home than a hotel. The design wasn’t about flashy trends — it was about slowing down, noticing the textures of wood, the way light spilled across stone floors, the scent of the vineyard just outside.

Dinner was served with the kind of care that makes you feel like a guest, not just a customer — homemade dishes paired with Hemanaire’s own D.O.P-certified organic wines. Deep, velvety reds that seemed to carry the sun and soil of the hills into every sip. Breakfast the next morning was equally thoughtful, with pastries that seemed to vanish too quickly and coffee that begged for a slow second cup.

Hemanaire also offers a small wellness area and a pool — a tempting combination for travelers ready to let go of the rush. But my favorite moment came after dinner, when the night air cooled and Hana and I wandered between the vineyard rows. The world was silent except for the soft rustle of leaves, the stars scattered thick above us.

Before leaving, we took a short walk into Cremolino town, a small but character-filled place with views that stretch across the Piedmont hills. Here, we discovered something I’ll always associate with this stop — Cremolina, a dessert cream made from local hazelnuts. Silky, nutty, and dangerously moreish, it felt like the edible version of Hemanaire’s spirit: rooted in tradition, crafted with care, and impossible to forget.

Leaving wasn’t easy. Monaco was calling, but so was the idea of just one more night in Casa Mana — one more dinner, one more slow morning, one more walk among the vines.

If your travels ever take you between the Alps and the Mediterranean, make a point to stop at Hemanaire in Cremolino. You’ll leave with more than beautiful photos — you’ll carry the taste of wine and hazelnuts, the memory of quiet nights among the vines, and the reminder that sometimes, slowing down is the most luxurious choice of all.